Hybrid - Spray Foam Insulation and Cellulose
Guided Tour
Blown In Cellulose
Installing Spray Foam on the Attic Floor
Top Plates
Blowing In Cellulose
Spray Foam Top Plates
The Hybrid package combines the value of Cellulose and Spray Foam insulation. With
the Hybrid package, you get all the benefits of the Cellulose and Cellulose + packages
and then some. For this package, we vacuum out all of the old insulation, which
can become very dirty over the years. Since houses are very much connected to the
attic, insulation in this area is very important. The vacuuming process allows us to get a complete look at the
attic and use two-part foam on the entire ceiling, which allows us to achieve a
disconnect between the house and the attic. Many HVAC
systems use wall cavities as return air ducts because the walls are connected to
the ceiling. Often, these ducts spread polluted air throughout your home. After
we clean out your old attic insulation, you will benefit from an improvement in
your indoor air quality. The greatest benefit of the Hybrid package is that you
get high quality products for a reasonable price. The two-part foam is an expensive
material, which is why we combine the high performance foam with the affordability
of cellulose to achieve the desired R value without driving up costs.
Blower door -test in
The blower door is a diagnostic tool that we use to measure the airflow from conditioned
space to the unconditioned space outdoors. By depressurizing (or in some cases pressurizing)
the home we are simulating a 20 mph wind that accentuates the air leaks.
First, we take some measurements of the home and use them to do some calculations
to figure out what the “building airflow standard” (BAS) is for that house. The
BAS (which matches up with ASHRAE 62.2-2010) is the TARGET for a healthy home. A
healthy home should have a natural air exchange of about 35% of the volume of the
house per hour. (as stated by BPI)
After we have a target number, we do the blower door test to see how much air sealing
is needed. If the house is below the healthy house standard for airflow we will
need to evaluate the need for mechanical ventilation.
The blower door test also allows us to identify where the leaks in the home are
and help us plan our air sealing measures.
“If the measured CFM50 is less than the BAS, as set forth
in the ASHRAE 62.2-2010, mechanical ventilation must be recommended or installed
according to the standards.”(BPI)
“Blower door tests must be performed before and after the installation of air sealing,
enclosed cavity insulation representing more than 15% of the shell area, or sealing
of the duct-work located outside the building envelope.”(BPI)
Appliance Safety Test-Test in
This test also known as the “CAZ worst case depressurization test” is used to make
sure the combustion appliances are drafting correctly. By turning on the bathroom
and kitchen exhaust fans, the dryer and the air handler, among other things like
opening certain doors and closing others, we are setting the house in the worst
case scenario to make sure all of the natural drafting combustion appliances are
drafting properly, even during the worst case conditions.
”A preliminary and post-installation safety inspection of
all combustion appliances must be completed whenever changes to the building envelope
and/or heating system are part of the work scope. This inspection includes all of
the following tests: carbon monoxide (CO) measurement at each appliance, draft measurement
and spillage evaluation for atmospherically vented appliances, and worst-case negative
pressure measurement for each combustion appliance zone (CAZ).” (as stated by BPI)
”With the exception of unvented gas or propane cooking appliances, CO must be tested
in all combustion appliances under worst-case conditions and normal draft conditions
(when the appliance fails under worst-case). In addition, it is recommended that
CO be tested under a mild down-draft if conditions are safe.”(as stated by BPI)
”Spillage and draft tests must be completed for all natural and induced draft space
heating systems and water heaters. Spillage and draft must first be tested under
worst-case conditions and then repeated for natural conditions if the appliance
fails under worst-case.” (as stated by BPI)
”In homes with natural gas/propane service, the gas line must be inspected thoroughly
and all leaks repaired.” (as stated by BPI)
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Appliance Efficiency Test
Appliance Efficiency Test
With this test we can determine if the appliances are running at their peak efficiency
rate. By using a combustion gas analyzer and referring to the “BPI combustion safety
action test level table” we can identify the need for service on the appliance.
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Attic Hatch
The attic hatch is often under insulated. First, we will insulate the hatch to R-30
with foam board insulation. Then we will install a barrier around the attic hatch;
this prevents the insulation from falling into the home when the hatch is removed.
Finally, we will weather-strip the hatch to make sure it is airtight.
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Bath Fan
Exhaust Fans
All ventilation duct systems, including local exhaust, must be appropriately ducted
to provide the most direct route outside as possible. We will install a box to cover
the bathroom exhaust fan. This box will cause an airtight seal while allowing the
fan to exhaust properly.
Recessed can light fixtures that are not IC-rated, chimneys
and other heat producing obstructions must be baffled with an effective dam prior
to insulating the area to maintain minimum clearances to insulation or other combustible
products. (BPI)
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Can Lights
Recessed Light Fixtures
Many homes have recessed light fixtures that will need a box installed to keep the
insulation from touching the housing. Until recently, light fixtures were designed
to allow insulation to be installed directly on top of the fixture.
Recessed can light fixtures that are not IC-rated, chimneys
and other heat producing obstructions must be baffled with an effective dam prior
to insulating the area to maintain minimum clearances to insulation or other combustible
products. (BPI)
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Flu Pipe Shielding
Chimney/Flu pipe
Heat Source Shield
There are potentially several heat sources that are exposed in the attic, including
flu-pipe and chimneys. A barrier is necessary to keep the insulation from touching
this heat source. This barrier assumes that the heat can dissipate properly. Insulation
touching the heat source could be a safety hazard.
In most cases, we will install insulshield flashing to create a 2" barrier between
the insulation and the heat source. Sometimes these barriers are made with drywall
or another rigid material.
Recessed can light fixtures that are not IC-rated, chimneys
and other heat producing obstructions must be baffled with an effective dam prior
to insulating the area to maintain minimum clearances to insulation or other combustible
products. (BPI)
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Attic Fan
Whole house fans (attic fans) are a great way to cool a house when the outdoor temperature
is comfortable. It introduces fresh air into the house and it uses less energy than
an air conditioner. However, the nature of the way the fans are built tends to make
them a problem area for unwanted heat transfer, especially during the heating season.
The metal parts of the fan are a major source of heat transfer through conduction.
The louvers that open up when the fan is on tend to develop a buildup of dust over
time that will not allow them to set down properly, causing a major source of infiltration.
We will install a cover on the inside of the home on the underside of the louvers
which will cause an airtight seal. We will also install a rigid barrier in the attic
so that the new insulation does not fall into the fan.
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Attic Bypasses
Air-sealing measures must be prioritized to reduce the stack effect and inhibit
moisture migration into attics or other interstitial spaces.
When installing insulation, hidden penetrations called "attic bypasses" allow unwanted
air exchanges between conditioned and unconditioned space.
This is a major contributor to energy loss. Air leakage accounts for up to 40% of
the annual heating and cooling cost. When installing insulation, it is just as important
to seal the bypasses as it is to add insulation. There are many conduits for air
travel within the building's cavities, including soil stacks, soffits, recessed
lighting, chimneys, wall chases, attic hatches, attic fans, duct boots, electrical
penetrations, etc. The stack effect is caused by warmer air that pushes upward.
Air that escapes through the attic bypasses creates suction at the lower levels,
pulling air in.
We will do a thorough check of the attic to seal all of these bypasses, using the
appropriate materials: caulk, expanding foam, etc.
Air-sealing measures must be prioritized to reduce the stack
effect and inhibit moisture migration into attics or other interstitial spaces.(BPI)
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Vacuum Out All the Old Insulation
Because the house is so very much connected to the attic, often times we are pulling
dirty and polluted air from the attic into our home through the HVAC system. By
vacuuming or removing all of the old insulation we are able to work with a clean
slate to achieve as close to a 100% seal at the ceiling (Thermal boundary) as possible,
putting an end to bringing these pollutants into the home.
Visual inspection of the attic. Visual indicators include
all of the following:
- Inspect the attic floor underneath the insulation to locate thermal by-passes and
cavities requiring air sealing.
- Inspect for areas where moisture migration into the attic is apparent and determine
the source of the moisture.
- Insulation that has turned black is an indicator of air movement through the insulation.
Identify the source. (BPI)
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Spray Foam Entire Attic
Closed cell spray foam insulation creates and excellent air barrier, moisture barrier
and insulator. We spray the entire attic floor with a 1” layer for 2 part foam to
create a high performance thermal boundary.
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Top off to the desired R-Value with Cellulose
To achieve the proper R value, we use the chart provided by the cellulose manufacturer
to determine how many bags of insulation to install in your attic based on the square
footage, your existing insulation and your desired R value, thus guaranteeing the
proper density and designed performance.
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Blower Door-Test Out
Because we have changed the dynamics of the home by the installed insulation and
air sealing measures, we need to do another blower door test and compare the results
to the BAS for your home to see if we have hit the TARGET. (Many times the air-sealing
measures will cause the home to drop below the BAS or TARGET, thus creating a need
to consider mechanical ventilation as required by ASHRAE 62.2-2010) By comparing
the before and after blower numbers we can effectively project the energy savings
you are going to see.
“Blower door tests must be performed before and after the
installation of air sealing, enclosed cavity insulation representing more than 15%
of the shell area, or sealing of the duct-work located outside the building envelope.”(BPI)
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Appliance Safety Test-Test Out
Again because we have changed the dynamics of your home, we need to retest the appliances
to make sure they are drafting properly.
”With the exception of unvented gas or propane cooking appliances,
CO must be tested in all combustion appliances under worst-case conditions and normal
draft conditions (when the appliance fails under worst-case). In addition, it is
recommended that CO be tested under a mild down-draft if conditions are safe.”(
BPI)
”Spillage and draft tests must be completed for all natural and induced draft space
heating systems and water heaters. Spillage and draft must first be tested under
worst-case conditions and then repeated for natural conditions if the appliance
fails under worst-case.” (BPI)
”In homes with natural gas/propane service, the gas line must be inspected thoroughly
and all leaks repaired.” (BPI)
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